For a variety of reasons, I’ve been getting back to things that make me really happy. I love making baby items. They have always been really well received, so I think it’s probably what I’m best at. Too bad there are no babies for me to model them on.
Over the past couple days, I came up with this baby jacket sample for a Made-to-order item on Etsy.
My 13 year old provided her Teddy to be my model. Aw! While its cute, there are things I’d like to change about it and I’d like to add an ombre flow to the sweater.
Note: This is NOT a pattern. It’s a tutorial.
- Three or more skeins worsted or size 4 weight of the same color family of yarn. I’m using what I have on hand, 3 skeins, and wrote the pattern for 3 color changes. If you want to use more, divide your body size by the number of colors. For example, I’m doing a 3-6 month size. The body is 11 inches tall. I need to change colors every 3 inches, roughly. I’m not going to be too fussy about it. Measuring as you go is tricky because of crochet’s four way stretch. Measure with care. Stretch gently to your correct width before you measure your length. If you want a true ombre flow, skip the stripes for the shoulders and round up to the next inch for each color.
- Size J – 6.00mm hook or size of your choosing to accomplish your look.
- Tape measure
- Needle for weaving in and, if you choose to, sewing seams
Starting from the back bottom hem. I’ll be making one in a 3-6 month size but placing 0-3 month, 3-6 month and 6-12 month measurements in the pattern instructions. I find measurements make patterns easier to tailor.
Thank you to Valerie Love for the diagram accompaning her knit pattern “Cotton Candy Jacket and Booties”. It has been amazingly helpful, especially since I can not convert from knit to crochet, like at all.
You should be able to change yarn and hooks based on the measurements. I’ll be working dark to light, but feel free to any direction you wish. There’s no starting chain stitches. In reading thousands of blogs, I realize that everyone does it differently and that the results are all the same.
- Sc across first row until row is 10″ (12″, 13″) across
- Hdc across
- Sc in back loop across
- Repeat rows 2 and 3 for pattern until piece is 3″ (3″, 4″) Fasten off.Color B
- Join and continue pattern for 2″ (3″, 4″) Do Not fasten off
- Count your stitches. Write down 1/2 the number of stitches. This row starts the sleeves, so you are going to add that number of stitches to each side. The first side,you will chain and turn. The second side, you will need to foundation stitch. My row ended on a single crochet, so my first sleeve row will be half double crochet. Check out this tutorial https://youtu.be/I9Og5cd2L0o I know, my couch needs cleaned. Again. I have a LOT of kids.
- Continue until piece measures 6″ (6″, 8″). Fasten off Color C
- Join color C, continue in pattern until piece measures 9″ (9″, 12″)
- Size 0-3 months, skip this step! Create the shoulder seam stripes. Using colors A and B, alternate row colors until piece measures 11″ (13″) DO NOT FASTEN OFF Front
- Here you have two choices, you can continue on as one piece, or tie off and work the front from the bottom up. You want the front to match the back, same number and type of rows, but you will work each half separately. The neck should equal the number of stitches you wrote down early. For example, my number was 20, so I will leave 20 stitches unworked on the center of the back and 10 stitches on each side of my front unworked. I’ll be working from the bottom up because my stripes on the shoulder look different depending on which end you view them from.
- Weave in the ends and join the side and arms. There are lots of choices here too. You can slip st, whip stitch, baste. I’ve used all of them for various projects over the years. I’ll be selling this sweater, so I’m going with a locking baste stitch. Be sure to match up your stitches as often as you can for a more finished look. I will note that sometime last year I switched my needle from tapestry to crewel. The crewel needle is much harder to get the yarn through the eye but I like how secure my projects feel with its sharp point.
- You will need to decrease the number of stitches on the front neck line then add A chain of stitches to the height you want your hood to be (10″-14″ usually) and join to the opposite lapel to create a round. Count your stitches and estimate your number of rounds. Decide how many stitches each row needs to be decreased by. Work as if you were doing a hat from the bottom up with 2 exceptions. 1. For the first row of decrease, work them all along the neck line. Be flexible. Close to the end, I decided the hood wasn’t deep enough. I worked a few rounds even and let it kind of decide for itself when it was finished. The hood is a great place to change up the texture.
- Sleeves (totally optional) the wrist needs tightened. I switched to a hook one size less and single crocheted evenly around. Next I hdc dec in each stitch around. Lastly, I (puff stitch, CH 1, SL st) around and fastened off.
- I added a border with buttonhole to the raw edges and hood. I tightened the look of the hood by working the border with a smaller hook. Lastly the button was sewn on across from the buttonhole. You could add ties, Velcro, snaps or a zipper and the sweater would still look darling.